L. A. Confidential

Thoughts from a quick jaunt to the Southland:

— The Australian filet mignon at CUT inside the Beverly Wilshire is outstanding, justifying its high price. The service, as always, is impeccable.

–Manhattan Beach is always a treat, with big waves, beach volleyball and great restaurants. The blackened chicken sandwich at the Shellback Tavern is superb, and it’s a great place to watch sports.

— USC football is back, but the size of the crowd at the win over Washington State was disappointing.

— Breakast at S.A.L.T. at the Marina Del Rey Hotel continues to impress.

Howdy, Dallas

Three thoughts while visiting the Big D in the Lone Star State:

— If you go to an SMU football game on a day in the 90s, bring something to sit on. The aluminum benches will be on fire, and shorts do not help.

— Visit the George W. Bush Presidential Museum. It’s truly remarkable how many historic events, from 911 to the financial crisis, occurred during his presidency. Perhaps the funniest part was seeing about eight bobbleheads of various Presidents, all smiling — except Donald Trump, who is scowling.

— Watch out for Friday traffic from Love Field. Listen to Waze to try to avoid the worst of it. No one enjoys progressing a mile in 10 minutes.

The Quinquagenarian Traveler: Five Must-Do Items in London

London abounds with choices, from museums to cruises to spots for tea. Here are five must-do items to make your next trip more pleasurable.

  • Tea at Claridge’s. This venerable hotel offers an incredibly gracious tea, including Champagne, finger sandwiches and – if you attend during Wimbledon – pastries shaped like tennis balls.Tennis Ball Pastry
  • The Wallace Collection. Armor and swords mingle with paintings and furniture in an elegant three-story building.
  • Churchill War Rooms. See not only the space where World War II strategy was hatched but learn about arguably the greatest historical figure of the 20th
  • CityCruises. Relax while a witty tour guide shows you buildings both historic and modern along the Thames River
  • Uber. Not as nice as London’s spacious cabs but much cheaper.

The Quinquagenarian Traveler: Horse Sense in Charleston

For years I had torn out magazine articles and filed a collection about why I should visit Charleston, S.C. If there were a linchpin among the myriad pieces, it would consist of one word: charm.

Unfortunately I found little during the first viewing of the decidedly Southern city (South Carolina was the first state to secede from the Union, and the Civil War began at Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbor). But that changed the second day of my visit as I took that most touristy of choices: a horse-drawn carriage ride.

It is the only way to efficiently see Charleston and to learn about it. For an hour, one passes antebellum houses, some with welcoming double staircases and many of which double as museums. Churchyards are dotted with gravestones, some from the 17th century. The Four Corners of Law is a special intersection, featuring a church, U.S. Post Office, city hall and county building — otherwise known as hail, mail, jail, and bail.


The elegant U.S. Post Office at the Four Corners of Law.

Lest one think the historic streets must be lined with horse manure, be heartened that drivers are required to drop a marker wherever a horse goes to the bathroom for a worker to clean up.

My magazine articles perhaps got me too excited about the charming attractions of a surprisingly large city (population near 100,000), but at least a slow-paced carriage ride opened my eyes to some of the beauty in town.



The Quinquagenarian Traveler: Be My One&Only


By David Sweet

This was not your typical trim—unless drinking Don Julio 1942 during a haircut is normal.

At the new barber shop at One&Only Palmilla in Los Cabos, the chair itself—created in the 1920s and bolted to the middle of the floor—was the most comfortable I had ever sat in. That doesn’t mean it was shaped like a La-Z-Boy recliner; the combination of stiff back and perfectly placed footrest made it a lumbar king. Products from London graced the shelves for the hirsute, even one created especially for long beards.

With the curtains closed and with a shot of Don Julio racing down my gullet (other choices include vodka, whiskey, bourbon, and mescal), I watched the U.S. Open on ESPN Vivo on a television screen within the mirror. The golfers strode down fairways, yet I could see myself in the reflection in the mirror as well. I don’t think it was the effects of the tequila, but at that point, I didn’t care to prove or disprove that theory. One more Don Julio with the scalp massage, if you please.

Fully recovered from the September 2014 hurricane that ravaged the Mexican resort, One&Only Palmilla is better than ever—and not just for men searching for the ultimate haircut. The veranda—part of the original 1950s house owned by Don Abelardo Rodriguez, son of the President of Mexico—now features floor-to-ceiling windows proffering views of the Sea of Cortez. A new steakhouse, Seared, has opened, along with a fire pit by one of the pools.

One other hefty new addition: Priscilla the turtle, who weighs more than 100 pounds. She was rescued by the resort during the hurricane; her owners were out of town and needed someone to take care of her.

“She’s been so happy here,” says Cecilia Aragon, director of public relations at the resort, showing Priscilla’s sloped plot of grass. “The owners still come and say hello.” Aragon witnessed the hurricane firsthand.

“It was horrible,” she recalls. “It came with such strong winds that roof tiles were flying off like bullets. But from a bad experience comes a good experience.”

After four months of intense construction—where all 920 employees pitched in—One&Only reopened this past spring.

During a three-night stay with around-the-clock butlers, my wife Tricia and I took pleasure in the abundant choices of food, drinks, leisure activities, and more.

Fresh from a tequila-infused haircut and with Tricia sporting new beach waves courtesy of the OBO Salon (her stylist mentioned Jennifer Aniston recently sat in her chair), we walked to Agua by Larbi, one of four restaurants at the 25-acre resort.

“This is the best table in Los Cabos,” says the maître d’ and he is right. A handful of half-moon benches and tables built for two perched over the Sea of Cortez present an unmatchable view.

As the sun sets, lights sparkle in houses and on cars around a large stretch of southern Baja, a hint of Monaco emanating from the scene. The lamb tanguine and seared sea bass are especially tasty.

The following night, a lengthy table for 12 rests on the sand, featuring flowers down the middle and a stone oven roasting meats at one end. The menu, organized by executive chef Larbi Dahrouch, includes Mexican nopalitos salad, jumbo shrimp, grilled chicken and pork rack, along with coconut corned pie for dessert.

Peter Bowling, the resort’s debonair managing director who grew up in England, is a maestro at ensuring all are entertained.

Margaritas and/or wine in all hands, he conducts a wave of toasts, asking guests to clink glasses with the person on their right while looking straight into their eyes.

One&Only Palmilla (which includes a Catholic chapel at its highest point) is spread out nicely so that a large wedding reception could be happening at one end, and most visitors would never know.

Palm trees sway and flowers bloom, buttressing the tranquil scene. Upon seeing a guest, employees place their hand on their heart.

“That’s the One&Only Palmilla salute,” Aragon says. “It’s our way to say we’re happy that you’re here.”

The resort caters to those who wish to stay active along with those who wish to simply read a book. For the former, sunrise yoga takes place on the beach and kayaks can be paddled about the Sea of Cortez.

During a long walk on the sand, pelicans can be seen dive-bombing for their lunch into the salt water. Guests can rent the resort’s 95-foot yacht for the day, which features a full crew and four cabins. For the less-active types, the two pools—one containing a swimup bar—possess dozens of chaises longue to relax and devote one’s self to his or her favorite paperback. The rooms, comfortable and attractive, are also a fine place to hang out quietly.

In ours, a painting of fish scurrying about the ocean hangs above the couch, and a wide wooden desk in front of the king bed offers plenty of room to write a postcard, as anachronistic as that activity may be.

But the real excitement arrives upon stepping outside. The balcony, concocted of stone and tiles, overlooks the Sea of Cortez.

The sight, sound, and sometimes smell of the waves leaves only touch and taste unsatisfied among the senses, and the latter can be satiated with the complimentary tequila inside. A half bed lets couples snuggle into the pillows and uncurl their legs at one end.

Birds are not afraid to appear on the rail, walk a bit of a high-wire act, and fly away.

It’s not easy to leave One&Only Palmilla, with its emphasis on the unhurried life in an idyllic setting. I hope the Don Julio 1942 doesn’t run out before our next visit.

The Quinquagenarian Traveler: Five Ways to Improve a Disney Cruise

The waiters captivate diners with magic tricks, and new film releases abound in comfortable theaters. But despite its popularity, the Disney Dream cruise to the Bahamas can be improved.

Here are five ways the Mouse can perfect its experience:

1) Don’t misrepresent offshore excursions. Swimming with the Dolphins at Atlantis was more like Kneeling with the Dolphins. And if you’re going to ask customers to meet at 9 a.m. on the cruise’s first day, don’t make them wait nearly three hours before cuddling up with Flipper.

2) Adults love coffee. At Castaway Cay, the island owned by Disney where cruisers spend the better part of the day, the message was: No coffee for you, even though unlimited joe could be poured onboard. Stop at enough spots, and one could find a frozen cappuccino for a hefty price.

3) Combs are good. Within the Serenity Spa’s men’s locker room, the amenities are slim. But when a spot offers showers, shouldn’t combs be available afterward? I even asked at the front desk with dripping hair, and a kind woman checked the nearby barber shop. But no, a man must groom his locks with his fingers.

4) Let there be light. Using a card by the door to turn on all lights in a room has its pitfalls. Example: When our son started throwing up in the middle of the night, we couldn’t see anything to grab to help keep it off the bed. One emergency light by the parents’ bed would improve matters greatly.

5) Water water everywhere but not a drop to drink. Even cheap hotels supply free bottled water in its rooms. Though you’re captive in a five-person stateroom – replete with a view of, you guessed it, water – the Disney Dream is bereft of complimentary H2O.